It is always a good idea to have one shelter on the warm side and one on the cool side. The shelter can be anything from a hide box to a decorative reptile shelter, hiding hut or cave. It is essential to the well-being of your Milk Snakes to have hiding places in their enclosure. F as this could be detrimental to your snake's health. If you choose to add a basking bulb to add more light to your cage make sure that you maintain proper heat levels but not go over 88 deg. Milk Snakes, like all snakes do not require a light or UV bulb. We recommend controlling the ceramic emitter with a thermostat and monitoring the temperatures with a thermometer. The heat mat and ceramic heat emitter should be on one side while the other side should not have any heat source. We recommend an under tank heat mat and Infrared Ceramic Heat Emitter. The best way to heat your Milk Snake’s enclosure is with a combination of heat mat and ceramic heat emitter. Whichever you decide to use, stick to well-known products designed for use with reptiles and be careful of some commercial aspen brands as they may contain high amounts of dust or other contaminants that that can be harmful to your pet.Īs with all reptiles, Milk Snakes need a thermal gradient consisting of a warm side (86° F) and a cool side (78° F). Baby Milk Snakes can also be kept on paper towels or similar product until they become juveniles. Reptile keepers also use Zoo Med Repti Bark, Zoo Med Forest Floor Cypress Bedding or Zoo Med Eco Earth. Substrate Zoo Med Aspen Snake Bedding is generally the best substrate for Milk Snakes. You should NEVER house more than one Milk Snake together as Milk Snakes sometimes are cannibalistic. Since like most snakes, Milk Snakes are escape artists, a secure screen top is absolutely critical to keep your snake from escaping the enclosure. There is no such thing as a cage too big for a Milk Snake so larger is always much better than smaller. For example, a subspecies that becomes a 4 foot adult should be housed in an enclosure at least 40 gallons in size. For these reasons, it is difficult to provide a single care sheet for all species and subspecies of Milk Snakes, but below is a basic outline of how to keep your Milk Snake happy and healthy.īaby and juvenile Milk Snakes can be set up in an enclosure as small as a 10 gallon (20" x 10" x 12"H) but adults should be housed in a larger enclosure of 20 to 70 gallons (36" x 18" x 25"H) depending on their full adult size to allow for additional room and a better design. Milk Snakes come from grasslands, farmlands, pine and deciduous forests and generally reach adult sizes all the way from 2 to 5 feet. The genus of Milk Snakes contains an incredible variety snakes that have a large range of sizes and habitats. I was already aware that milk snakes where closely related to king snakes which do show cannibalistic tendencies however from reading articles on hybrid breeding I discovered that Honduran milk snakes have less of these tendencies than there cousins.Īll these factors mentioned led me to the assumption that it could be possible to find an animal that could co-exist in the tank.Milk Snakes include some of the most beautiful subspecies of any genus and they are easy to keep in captivity which explains why they are incredibly popular with reptile hobbyists. In addition the snake has only been fed pinkys since it was born and therefore it is unlikely to see many other items as food. I do not think the snake would try and eat any other reptile or insect as it only eats pinkys because of the scent and the heat coming from them neither of which would be present in an insect or reptile. I thought that people may know of an animal that would be harmless to the snake such as how the locust proved to be. I find it hard to believe that the locust could have harmed the snake and I only put the locust in their as an experiment to see if it may eat it as I had heard that corn snakes could eat them.
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